Sunday, September 6, 2009
"Stoke"comes in all shapes and sizes.
I went Monday with only the shortboard in the boat to Masonboro. To me, near perfect Masonboro form. Lots of barrels and a fare amount of surfers. It would have been to much for the stand up board, but the outside shoal was starting to break as the tide fell. Either way, a caught some great waves, had my worst wipeout ever (2 back tucks over the falls and a two wave hold down) and I got my foot ran over taking off a half dollar size of skin while paddling out. The wipe out and getting my foot about hacked off I'll never forget! I'm stoked because it's good to have your head on your shoulders and two feet at the end of a session.