Tuesday, January 5, 2010

West Coast Holiday Surf

Butch about to take the ULI for a demo surf at Mission Beach. This is Jim Weir's board, the owner of ULI corp based out of San Diego.

Butch's first wave of the morning.


The "Golden Bear" taking the drop.

Now at the bottom.

I believe this is me shot from the shore,

This day was a super high tide at 7ft. The waves were chest to head on sets. I forgot my leash but had one on a surfboard I have kept in Butches garage in the desert for two years. It broke on an overhead bomb that stuck me on a paddle out just 30 minutes into the session. Luckily, the tide was super high and you could wait between sets to get out. I got caught two more times by sets and had to make the swim. You can see the shorebreak was pumping.

The word was, a few days prior, this beach break was unsurfable because of the size. The tide was dropping as we left and was starting to wall up and get vertical with bigger sets.
More about the ULI and photos to come..

1 comment:

  1. Glad you are having fun. What a magical place to catch waves. Miss ya hope to see you 2 soon. Happy New Year!