Sunday, December 13, 2009
Large surf this morning. Head high plus sets breaking really far out. SSW winds. I'm waiting on a wind change.
I just edited the morning post with a PM update. I waited till 3pm to go out after watching guys struggling to make the paddle and only catch a wave or so. Lots of inside current and some overhead bombs. I pulled out the shortboard but went with the paddle board instead. I paddled straight out in a rip and was out the back in a minute untouched by whitewater.