Mission Beach wave early. Day #3
I believe the guy on the wave was riding a 7'6" custom board that was locally shaped. It surfed like a potato chip, nice round and tight turns. Light offshore winds and pretty much sheet glass conditions seems to help your balance.
Butch on a long roller at P.B. Point. It takes a session or two in order to get used to surfing closer to the bottom of the wave. You can go back in forth top to bottom with the wave barely breaking. Not the typical run and gun I'm use to. Some really long rides and then you just stroll back out. During really big swells the waves are caught twice as far out and riden all the way to Tourmaline's.
The "GB''s first wave on Sunday at Tourmaline, just to the right of the parking lot.
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