Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
The sand bar was relentless with waves walling up one after another making the paddle out interesting. Th bar short dropping off to chest deep water quickly. There's nothing more frustrating than getting pounded by 2-3 ft. waves.
Lots of great shots by DW on http://www.ncpaddlesurfer.blogspot.com
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Another Surf House cake. This is the "Here you see it, now you don't" flavor.
Today, Saturday, was pretty good. Lots of bounce/chop with decent faces in the morning. 4-6 ft. faces. An interesting paddle out with a lot current on the inside. Tonight was fun with waist to chest surf with side shore winds and farely good lines. Surfed with CB1, DW, J-Mac and Z in the AM. Z and CB1 in the evening. Topsail tomorrow maybe.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Sunday, thigh to waist high sets.
Tuesday. Glassy knee high and a beautiful day. #16 Northend
Saturday, October 17, 2009
1 Month = Me there.
PS. The Surfhouse has good cake for after surfing and SD doesn't have that!
Friday, October 16, 2009
I brought the paddle board and my shortboard. There's no in between with me. I have to stay active when surfing. No longboard gliding, I need to push and pump.The waves only looked thigh-waist high but the tide was low and the waves were hollow with a WNW wind at 5-7. On the way to the water I stop and got the down low from a fellow surfer who said it was bigger than it looked. Sure enough, after half way through the paddle out I could see that. Why do the waves look and feel totally different when your feet hit the water? You can stand five feet from the water's edge and walk to the water, jump in and you receive a completely different perspective about the ocean.
I appreciate the differences between shortboard and the paddle board. The following is a short breakdown of both wave riding vehicles.
1) Good for surfing closed out surf.
2) I can get quasi barreled on about any day.
3) Good for fast maneuvers on quick waves.
4) I can duck dive whitewater or fall and get right back to paddling immediately.
5) I can sit in a pack and feel some Aloha.
1) Good for surfing closed out surf because I can get to the corners!
2) Yep, I can get quasi barreled most days. Lay down mid ride!
3) Since I'm down the wave before it breaks I can always get a maneuver.
4) I don't need to duck dive because I can paddle around the whitewater or wait for a lull.
5) Finally, It's hard to get that same Aloha spirit from fellow surfers. BUT SO WHAT, I'm sitting 20 yards outside the pack and too dang busy catching all the waves to notice anyways. Plus, my back hurts from all that sitting.
PS. I do love and and appreciate all ocean sports and generally respect all those involved. Yep wave skis and boogie boards also. Now come in and get some Aloha.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Thursday, October 8, 2009
You know we were newlyweds because she was impressed by my wave.
...surf La Jolla Cove with a big north swell. This looks like a good chance to stand up surf BIG Southern California. We visit San Diego several times a year and the cove is big and deep. Mostly snorkeling, swimming going on daily. North swell make the reefs (that seem to be a stone throw from the cliffs) light up! BIG swell that come around once every several years break across the deep inside. Inside is relatively speaking. Stand up surfing a big swell is on my bucket list. Anyone with me?
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
In my experience, on our East Coast , it's dangerous and annoying in crowded lineups to SUP. Our boards take more room to maneuver around. As far as knowing the lineup rules and etiquette, do half the surfers at your local breaks really understand and show consideration for others?
I don't want an inexperienced anything in a lineup. SUP, longboarders, bodysurfer or some tourist that swims right out to the most populated surf spots. And lets not forget about the leashless guys!
So before we debate the one or two inexperienced SUP surfers in the lineup, let's get the lineup straightened out for the proners.
1) It's not OK to paddle straight out to a crowded peak, unless you're best friends with everyone there. You should paddle to the side and work your way into the rotation. Be patient. An example: The guy who jumps in the water in front of the piling or pier and paddles right to the inside. HELLO a**hole!
2) If you catch a wave from the main peak, you should paddle out and sit to the side for the surfers still waiting to have their turn.
3) We all know the surfer to the inside has the right of way, that doesn't mean you can paddle to the inside or turn around while paddling out after someone is already showing commitment to a wave.
4) When paddling back out, always paddle to the inside and not to the shoulder if you're going to be in a riders way.
5) Sh*t happens. If you drop in on someone, pull out ASAP and apologize.
Etiquete comes with experience, logic and upbringing.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Using the TruckCam this afternoon I shot me riding 22 waves in the video frame in 47 minutes. I know I had anothe 5-7 waves outside the cameria angle. A wave every couple minutes. And I didn't have to snake anyone in the process!